The table napkin was made through the process of abel, an Ilocano tradition of weaving. Inabel or abel Iluko is the woven fabric, which is what the Ilocos region is also known for. Colorful inabel products come in ready-made blankets, placemats, table runners, pillow covers, towels, shawls, etc. Fabric for dresses, gowns and barongs, and other special items can be customized. ( Click on to read related post. ) You can visit the Museo Ilocos Norte, or Gameng,  for more  information.

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Handed down from generation to generation, the art of inabel weaving is a golden thread entwined in the Ilocano culture. Manually woven through a wooden loom, an abel fabric is made up of pure creativity, imagination, positivity, respect, discipline and keenness.

The Ilocanas of the olden times were taught this textile craft which once bolstered the economy of the Ilocos region during the colonial times, when abel products were largely exported to foreign lands. Spanish galleons sailed the seas with pieces of inabel sailcloth. The abel is certainly a representation of the elegant past of Ilocos.

The various abel weave designs are  inspired by natural elements. It maybe land formation patterns, the colors of flowers and vegetation, the ripples of a calm blue ocean, or the sky on a bright night.

There is always an untold story behind each and every piece of inabel, but clearly, the very essence of inabel is the beautiful qualities of an Ilocana.

(I dedicate this post to Manang Cion, the one person who gifted me with all the love while taking care of me since birth up to the time I had my own family. It was she who let me appreciate the joys of simple living. On her days off, she brought me along to Suba, her hometown, to experience bamboo rafting by the Paoay Lake, “sarguelas” and “lomboy” picking around the Nagbacalan forests, native jewelry making with “bugbugayong” and “bitbittaog”, and “karison” rides from Suba to Currimao. Two days from now, I’ll be turning a year older, and I will miss her predictable present, inabel specially customized by the weavers of Nagbacalan, Paoay.)

»♥«

Location: Aleli Joy’s Inabel/ Masintoc Sand Dunes, Paoay/Laoag Central School

Aleli Joy’s Inabel Barangay Nagbacalan, Paoay, Ilocos Norte, Philippines 639176086478

Photos by Blauearth Copyright © Blauearth™ ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

After touring Villa Angela and Arce Mansion, we took a tricycle to the city’s loom weaving zone. Sadly, most members of Generation Z do not appreciate the beauty of weaving an abel fabric,  to say the least, but through the sustainable efforts of the private sector, the Ilocos Sur and Vigan governments and heritage conservation groups, we hope the dying tradition will be around much longer, if not forever.

An 86-year old loom weaver who started weaving 76 years ago.

In the olden days, the process of making cotton yarn for inabel was done by the agagabel (abel-maker) herself. Today, due to time and cost constraints, the abel-makers prefer cheaper commercial threads, but are not thick enough so that the agagabel has to bind 24 strands of the commercial thread, and then coil it into a ball in preparation for the actual weaving process.

Weaving on a loom.

Besides blankets, table runners, bathrobes, etc., Cristy’s Loom Weaving crafts colorful bags in different styles. Alexa fancied a sling bag and also got a tote for her nanny and a make-up bag our cook.

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Admittedly, there used to be a local shortage of interestingly chic Ilocano stuff to wear or bring home to wherever. Unless customized (which entails a kinda long waiting time inclusive of a trip to Ilocos to choose the specifics, shipping, etc.) or aiming for traditional linens, buying native products made with inabel or any other indigenous material is a rather complicated story, not an easy task for the fuzzy shopper or tourist. But today, there’s no fretting over tired, dated or generic souvenir items and 168-ish fashion accessories being passed as local, MODi just opened at the Puregold Laoag last Sunday. On top of Brazilian Dupé flip-flops and Filipino-made fashion accessories is a kaleidoscopic range of nicely-made abel Iloko purses and clutches in swingin’ styles.

Tell me, where else can you find a Speedy-esque bag in handwoven acid pink binakol or wood-framed abel clutch? MODi (a contraction of modern Ilocano) is another brainchild of admirable entrepreneur and the epitome of a stylish Ilocano, Mary Ann Cua Macaraeg, CEO of Visionaire and President of ILEA.

-Went home with these handmade accessories.

The tiny space is packed with uncommon goodies. Plenty of boho and beach-appropriate items. Don’t miss a thing, check out all corners.

I learned they also accept bulk orders (email: info@visionaire.ph).

Photos by Ericke Tan on Instagram
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Abra, a former  Ilocos town, now among the provinces of the Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR),  has a rich texture of social, political and cultural history.  Abreños are largely Tingguians and Ilocanos.

The centuries-old impaod (backstrap) weaving and its many forms, developed through rituals and dreams, are so much a piece of history of the people (Itnegs) of the Tineg River. Pinaing is the goddess of  the women weavers who were taught to weave at the age of ten.

Norma Agaid with a hand-embroidered ritual tapis.

With pride and flame, nana Norma Gintengan Agaid, an Itneg native (internationally referred to as Tingguian) of Abra, speaks about the traditional craft she inherited from ancestors, “It’s the only thing I can pass down to my children and their children.”

The Tingguian colors are predominantly muted. Natural dyes such as malatayum plant (for indigo) were prominent in the designs of the olden days.

White sinugkitan  is worn to signify mourning.

A lace-edged slip underneath the tapis signifies wealth, according to nana Norma.

Piningitan edging such as tinulbek (tulbek ti biag) symbolizes life.

An Ilocano pagablan (loom).

The Abra abel of today are based on traditional pinilian (sampaga, python, river and horse patterns), dinapat (a special seamless weave), and binakol (op art weave like kosikos). The pastel and livelier  motifs are influenced by the times.

The ethnic handwoven fabric comes in the forms of traditional garments, blankets, scarves, table covers and many more. Special designs can be ordered from the remaining indigenous loom weavers in Abra.

Namarabar Ethnic Crafts and Antiques, Namarabar, Peñarrubia, Abra, Philippines
Maria Librada M. Donato
CP Nos.: 0905 2422069 / 0921 4359173
Zita M. Benabese
CP Nos.: 0905 5036515 / 0920 5437921

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2014

As fabrics have gone high tech, towels and blankets have become more sophisticated. Is there room for burbur in today’s homes?

Burbur is a type of abel that is loom-woven in Paoay. It resembles bath towel fabric, hence the name which is a term you’d describe a furry dog. The designs of burbur are much more simple.

The abel of yesteryears were made of pure cotton. The fabric is course and stiff, but gets softer with time. A burbur blanket is exceptionally heavy when wet, so that in the olden days, the manangs had the whole river to wash blankets and they’d leave them on the rocks to dry.

Most of the abel blankets today are not 100 percent cotton. Custom orders can be made however. The old tradition of spooling natural kapas (cotton) fibers is a tedious process, so loomweavers prefer China threads purchased in Divisoria.

On a random visit to the Pagablan in Paoay, what struck me were the burbur blankets, towels and even bata de baño (bathrobe). My last memory of a burbur bata de baño was on a classmate, during one of those Christmas tableaus. We still have our old sturdy blankets from my nanny. The owner’s name is part of the weave, so each piece is really special.

If you’re used to the texturized feel of burbur, it’s not easy parting with it.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2014

The dress code at the 5th National Tour Guides Convention farewell dinner in Cagayan de Oro read regional dress. A professional tour guide spells more fun in the Philippines, so I opted to wear inabel in a modern design, something I can wear to the streets when the event is over. Ericke helped me figure out this jumpsuit that I see getting cropped soon to wear with flat sandals or even sneakers. I’ll be recycling the re-embroidered cocoon shrug for a more formal event. At the end of the day, it was worth asking Loejai Lopez to make me this suit. He has an eye for details so I gave him the green light to design the shrug. It’s not that I’m picky, but I prefer not too serious and uncomplicated fashion. I was actually inspired by the white top and denim uniform. It’s a tradition that never leaves us, Ilocanos or not.

Carlo Caldito, The Ilocos Heritage Guide, was the escort of all the Ilocanas in our group. He was wearing his signature katukong and a barong by Tata Meng of His Tailoring. I had so much fun with Lis of Parklane Hotel, tour guides Ena and Hembee, also with animated new friends like Kyle Jennermann aka Kulas, the inspiring Canadian who wants to be part of the Filipino culture through his #becomingfilipino project and members of GAMA like Jan Seriosa.

The feathered outfit was inspired by native garb dating back to before the arrival of Magellan in the south.

Had to get dressed and do my makeup in less than 30 minutes. The YSL Rouge Volupte Rose Neillia was magic. Btw, YSL lippies are now available at Red Dot. Found the vintage satin clutch in the closet. The Guess heels are basically old as well.

Photographed by Carlo and Blauearth
© Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2014

If there’s anything I learned from Sugarcane Toddler, it is the endless possibilities of local textiles.

The fabrics that Sugarcane designer Ria Faust uses is an ode to time-honored Filipino hand-loomed fabrics. The dresses are the kind of clothes I regret my mom didn’t make for me while growing up. She made me pretty voile with lots of smocking and floret appliques. I loved them, but looking back, wouldn’t it have been uncommon if she fashioned abel cutesies worth keeping as heirloom pieces for the little ones? But as a mom, I never thought either about dressing up Martine, Ericke and Alex in mini me abel even for once.

To help sustain tradition, Filipino Ria Faust started Sugarcane in 2013. It is a vibrant line of globally-inspired toddler clothes, sizes 12 months-5 years, made of carefully sourced handcrafted fabric by women artisans in Philippine rural villages.

In the Sugarcane Spring/Summer 2015 lookbook are softly-hued binakol vests and dresses in arresting traditional abel, accented with pom-poms for a dose of boho whimsy.

Limited-edition Sugarcane is available in select toddler boutiques in San Francisco, but the good news is Ria ships also to the Philippines.

BTW, moms out there, check out Ria’s blog, Sugarcane Life (with her little daughter) for doses of inspiration.

Sugarcane
Tel: 650 483 7685
Email: sugarcanetoddler@outlook.com
Website: sugarcanetoddler.com

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This is so difficult to post. Okay let me start. The cosmetic pouch in playful orange and calming blues and Ilocano binakol put together is named Tina. Tina is the writer of BlauEarth, this blog.

It was a complete surprise to be tagged in a post by the owner of MODi, the line of fashion items inspired by the modern Ilocano. Humbled and grateful. Got two Tinas from MODi last night. Kept them in a safe place as of this writing.

Doubly happy to be part of something that helps sustain the fading tradition of inabel. Manang Cion Padayao would have been very kilig. Thank you MODi.

MODi is available at Red Dot, Cafe Bonita and the MODi stall in Robinsons Ilocos Norte.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2015

Indigenous abel weaver Magdalena Gamayo was awarded a Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan or National Living Treasures Award in 2012. Torrents of rain poured down from dark skies before we reach her village in Pinili. A tiny structure made of concrete blocks with a signage came into view when I made up my mind to head home to Laoag and visit the weaver some other time.

She had attended Sunday service at a church. Took the opportunity to ask about her from her students and apprentices, including her 11 year-old granddaughter, Arabella. Turning 92 in August, Nana Dalen, as they call her, goes to the center everyday and persists on teaching newer generations everything about the craft she has mastered, against the shriveling popularity of locally handmade textiles.

Awarded by no less than President Aquino in 2012.

I had visited various abel loom weaving communities in Ilocos and Abra. Most of Nana Dalen’s designs I’ve never seen before. Inubon a sabong (string of flower) best illustrates her masterful art. At the age of 16, her skills on the loom were honed by her aunt.

Tawa-tawa, binalbalatong, sinukitan are among her designs.

The rains stop. Nana Dalen arrives. The unassuming lady obliges for a photo-op. She smiles as she recalls the days when she fashioned her own fabric into a pandiling (long skirt). She brings out a collection of various antique skirts that look not quite too old.

Her students wish for their own cotton tree farm, a wider space perhaps and more pagablan for others.

More essential than the recognition that was bestowed upon her, she has inspired others to preserve a threatened tradition.

To reach Mrs. Magdalena Gamayo or the Manlilikha ng Bayan Weaving Center, text or call: 0909 7596885.

Photographed by BlauEarth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2015

We’re happy and proud Ilocanas wearing heritage, history, culture and tradition. Thanking modern Filipinas for creating easy to wear traditional abel fabric designs, helping sustain local weaving communities, and widening the love for anything indigenous and local.

I so love my handwoven wrap by news anchor-turned-designer Niña Corpuz. So versatile that it can be layered in a lot of ways. Very functional with a pocket, it’s also a belt bag. For those who’d want to see Niña’s latest creations and pop-up market schedules, @ninainabel is on Instagram.

Ericke’s inabel Dragonfruit top, is by Brae, created by upcoming designer Modesty Eugenio, who is currently preparing for a formal fashion and design training this coming year, I heard. Check out Brae on Instagram here.

Visited the Getty Center with the latest arrival. Welcome to LA, Brandon!!!

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